Though it's obviously become more of a tourist destination since then and is quite crowded in summer, it's also very easy to get away from the crowds. Walk anywhere outside the "normal" tourist loop, and suddenly... peace and quiet.
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Note that in the photo (which is taken at a monastery that brews some excellent beer) , I am wearing a jacket: the weather finally broke on this day, as well. For 21 days, we were running around in 100+ degree weather; from here on out, it will stay around 75-85.
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